The département of the Gers, one of the most rural in France, is noted for its foie gras, garlic and Armagnac. It includes most of what was once ancient Gascony, famous of course as the birthplace of the fourth musketeer, d’Artagnan, whose statue stands in the principal town of Auch.
Close to Auch is the village of Saint-Mont, the focal point of Les Producteurs Plaimont, a cooperative making some excellent white and red wines that go back beyond even d’Artagnan, to the secret skills of Benedictine monks in the eleventh century. They are of VDQS quality, that is, between vin de pays and appellation contrôlée.
Nicolas and Karen Kitchener of Domaine de Lauroux (05 62 08 56 76) also know a secret or two. Their dry white (2004), a blend of colombard, ugni blanc and gros manseng, is full of citrus fruits; it might not suit those who like a sweeter wine but it is superb with a wide range of foods. At €2.85 a bottle it is excellent value and opens up beautifully in the glass. Their Cuvée Confiance Rouge 2000 at €4.95 is a quality wine. The nose is superb, the colour still young, with ample fruit in the quite dry finish. Of sound structure, it seems likely to keep its quality for a long time. This Domaine also offers a rosé and a moelleux.
Instead of drinking the traditional Sauternes with foie gras, instead try a white Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh from the Madiran, made from a blend of grapes including grand manseng, petit courbu and arrufiac. This last variety distinguishes these wines from those of Jurançon and although they cannot be compared to the best Jurancon or Bergerac wines, they are good value for money.
Madiran reds, made mainly from the tannat grape, are decidedly wines for the patient drinker. Even blended with the cabernets and with pinenc, it is hard work to soften them. Some growers give them an extra shot of oxygen and others use new oak. However, after a decade or so, the best can be as fine a wine as you would wish to have in your collection.
Alain Brumont is the local genius with wines, famed for his Montus and the most outstanding, Châteaux Bouscassé. If you are very fortunate, buy a case each of the 1995 and 1996 vintage, but firmly resist the temptation to drink it for several more years. Open instead some of his more modest reds, such as Pichard or Plaimont: but be prepared either to decant them properly or to pour out a glass and allow the contents to settle, a good hour before you want to drink it.
