From Nantes in the north, once the centre of the French slave trade, to La Rochelle in the south, once the focal point of Protestant resistance to Catholic kings, the Vendée is a quaint microcosm of people who have little time for Parisians or Paris. Even the roofs have a political message, abandoning the placid grey of the Loire for a rebellious red.
In its heart the Vendée, wedged hard against the Atlantic coast, has never truly recognised the French Republic and asserts its independence at every opportunity, finding ponderous central state bureaucracy an easy target. Its visitors, too, will find that often they are left to themselves, free to stride along its broad sandy beaches or to roam its hills with a host of turning windmills. Le Mont-des-Alouettes has three all to itself, almost more mills than men in a vast empty landscape. Puy Crapaud has turned its ruined windmill into a fashionable restaurant, with an uninterrupted view of the ocean far away. The best resorts are St Jean-de-Monts, La Tranche-sur-Mer and the vast empty sands of Les Sables-d’Olonne, where a beach restaurant really is on the beach.
Off the Atlantic coast are the peaceful islands of Noirmoutier and Ile d'Yeu with their gentle climate and varied landscapes; they make ideal day trip destinations.
The weather in the southern part of the Vendée is just as distinctive, an extraordinary micro-climate that for much of the year makes it almost as warm as the French Riviera. At the height of summer temperatures above 30 degrees are the norm rather than the exception and in shallow waters the sea can be as comfortable as the Côte-d’Azur. Atlantic winds provide ideal conditions for sailing and windsurfing while bronzed lifeguards ensure that it is always safe to swim.
The wonderful historic theme park of Le Puy du Fou is a must for children and adults alike.
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