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Once the second largest Roman city after Rome itself, and capital of Roman Gaul, Lyon lies at the confluence of the rivers Rhône and Saône, dominating the Rhône département. For more than 2,000 years Lyon, a successful trading centre, owes its pre-eminence to geography as much as history: a riverside site midway between Paris and the Mediterranean.
Lyon’s Gallo-Roman roots are on Fourvière Hill, near the Notre-Dame Basilica, whose dominating presence provides a backdrop throughout the city. Its 14th century astronomical clock, in the north nave, was the technological masterpiece of its age. The remnants of the Roman theatre and the Odéon, a kind of popular opera house, bear comparison with Roman ruins anywhere outside Rome. In the centre of the city is the Presqu’île, stretching like a digit finger between the rivers, barely six blocks wide. This is where the heart of modern Lyon beats strongest: art galleries, antique dealers, chic restaurants, bars and theatres all vying for custom. Old Lyon has narrow cobblestone streets, lavish mansions dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, and intriguing little patios everywhere. And beneath the streets are traboules, passageways once used by silk weavers to deliver their latest fashions direct to the houses of the gentry, a way to beat the pandemonium above ground. The traboules and connecting stairways lead back to Croix-Rousse Hill through the district of the Canuts, where the silk weavers had their looms; today it remains a hotbed of artistic creativity.
The people of Lyon have always known how to enjoy themselves. Some of their restaurants, diverse and full of flair, are internationally famous: it was here that Paul Bocuse established his reputation as a brilliant chef. Citizens of Lyon lead an intense cultural life. They are part of a fashion scene that surpasses itself every year in fresh creativity. They can ring the changes in entertainment, from the lazy ambience of the pubs to a live cabaret at a café-théâtre.
To the north of Lyon stretch the vineyards of the Beaujolais, where charming little villages seemingly pop out of nowhere in the rolling hillsides.
On its doorstep, the Vallée Verte or Green Valley is an ideal centre for hiking and activity holidays. Possessing many high-altitude and village resorts, the Portes du Soleil region offers a vast ski area between Lake Léman and Mont Blanc. With its large expanses of forest and mountain pasture, four valleys, fourteen villages, glaciers, granite peaks and legendary summit, the Mont Blanc region is a firm favourite with visitors.
Far fewer find their way to the secluded Morzine and Abondance valleys, fashioned by two fast-flowing rivers. The villages in the Val d’Abondance contain many traditional wooden chalets, while those in the Vallée de Morzine are distinguished by their slate-covered rooftops.The Vallée de l’Arve, the historical heart of the Faucigny, has many hill-top villages, the home of the famous Swiss watchmaker, sadly in these days of automation and mass-production, a dying cottage industry.
Beyond the Faucigny, the Vallée du Giffre and the Grand-Massif are full of hikers in summer exploring the limestone ranges of the High Alps, with their fertile valleys, lakes, waterfalls and mountain streams. Inhabited since prehistoric times, the shores of Lac d’Annecy offer a huge range of aquatic activities, in what is probably the cleanest lake in Europe. The nearby Montagne du Semnoz has many cycle paths with memorable views of the mountains. Spruce trees, still the staple product of a thriving forestry industry, fill the valleys between the Col de la Colombière and Col des Aravis, while charming little villages nestle at the foot of the Aravis chain.
Dominated by fierce mountain ranges, the département capital Grenoble lies at the turbulent meeting point of the Isère and Drac rivers and the centre of the city forms a crescent around the south side of a bend of the Isère. Three squares, St-André, Notre-Dame and Victor Hugo, provide its vibrant night-life. Avenue Alsace-Lorraine, barred to traffic, is an affluent and highly popular shopping centre. The Musée Stendhal traces the life of Grenoble’s greatest writer, whose real name was Henri Beyle. The Bastille fort, best reached by cable car, offers exceptional views.
A little way to the north, the 11th century Grande Chartreuse abbey and distillery still produces its famous sweet and green liqueur, whose secret formula devised by the Carthusian Fathers is known only at one time to three living monks, handed down over the centuries. The Chartreuse region is a peaceful land of forests that crowd the edge of winding roads, whose barriers hang precariously over rushing torrents.
The changing scenery of the Savoie is part of its charm. It starts with rolling hills interrupted from time to time by old castles, crumbling churches and adobe houses. Then, as the altitude rises and the temperature drops, mountain pastures appear against a dramatic backdrop of the Alps. The Parc Naturel Régional de la Chartreuse has a large limestone plateau thickly covered with forest, at one time, and perhaps still, the home of fierce cave bears.
Its capital, Chambéry, the home for a while of the greatest French philosopher, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, has a delightful old quarter with narrow cobbled streets and quaint courtyards. Many of its grandest houses have an Italianate air, a reminder that this was once the capital of Savoy before the dukes left for Turin. To the north, the spa centre of Aix-les-Bains lies on Lac Le Bourget, the largest natural lake in France, ideal for water sports. Mont-Revard, its paths a haven for hikers, overlooks the town, which also has a casino, a racetrack and a demanding golf course.
Annecy lake
© Vanessa Bouvier
Chamonix
© OT Chamonix, Monica Damasso
Hôtel Chollet du Bourget, Chambéry
Chamonix
© OT Chamonix, Mario Colonel
Town Hall, Chambéry
View towards Annecy from Col de la Forzia
© Vanessa Bouvier
Market day, Chambéry
Mont-Blanc summit
© OT Chamonix, Mario Colonel
Ste-Chapelle du Château des Ducs de Savoie, Chambéry
Place St-Léger, Chambéry
Les Confins
© Vanessa Bouvier
Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix
© OT Chamonix, Mario Colonel